Welcome to Madikwe

Tuesday April 14

Lazy mornings feel so good especially because I'm able to lay in Sam's arms. Our driver was coming at 10am to take us to Madikwe Game Reserve in South Africa, but we happened to wake up around 4am. I figured now that Sam was with me I would be able to sleep, but instead I want to spend every minute I can awake with him. Combined with his jet lag, we were wired and ready to go by 5am. 

We flipped through the tv channels while relaxing. Sam was incredibly excited about finding rugby on everyday channels. Television is such a luxury and I was happy watching anything. 

When it was a reasonable hour of the morning and people were out starting their morning, we went for a walk, getting reacquainted with each other. I was reminded of how easy and comfortable it is being with Sam. We had breakfast at the hotel before checking out of the hotel. I already know it will be difficult adjusting my lifestyle back to an American budget rather than my measly Peace Corps budget. For Sam, a $20 breakfast is reasonable for a vacation meal; however, that's two weeks worth of groceries for me. 

It was finally time for our safari adventure. Between exchanging money and stopping several times at the border crossing to pass through customs, it took us at least an hour to get out of Botswana. We finally made it to South Africa, my first vacation in 8 months was just beginning. 

Once we arrived in Madikwe and start driving I understood why a 40 mph zone is enforced. Within five minutes we found a giraffe eating from a tree right along the road. It didn't seem even bothered by our passage. And we continues on our way to Mosetlha Bush Camp. 

Madikwe Game Reserve is the fourth largest game reserve in South Africa with 75,000 hectares. We are staying at Mosetlha which is a bush camp and eco-lodge which offers an eco-experience by cooking over an open fire, using solar for all power, bucket baths, and pit latrines. Although this sounds more like a Peace Corps experience, it was quite luxurious and romantic. The camp accommodates 16 people in 9 wooden cabins. There is a common area to relax, play games, or have a glass of wine as well as a shared dining room where everyone shares meals together. 

Upon arrival we met a young French couple who had been there for one night already and spoke very highly of the game drives. We settled in briefly before moving to lunch of cheeseburgers and salad. At 4pm we went on our first game drive. 

We were joined by another three people halfway through lunch, so there were 7 guests plus our field guide adventuring out on the game drive. This was a manageable number to drive around with compared to the 11 people the truck could potentially hold. The truck was a range rover wish seats attached to the bed, ideal for looking out for animals.

Within minutes we found wildebeest, jackals, and steenbok as we made our way to the waterhole. Both the steenbok and antelope mate for life. Down at the waterhole we found an elephant bull taking a drink of water with some guinea fowl. Johnny, our field guide, called the guinea fowl chickens and Sam called them dodos, but to me they are guinea fowl. 

Occasionally we would pass other game drive trucks. On one of the trucks was apparently a famous soccer player. When Johnny said his name everyone oohed and ahhed in appreciation, whereas Sam and I looked at each other completely clueless.

After driving around for nearly an hour we turned off the road and straight into the bush, over bushes, shrubs, and small trees. Occasionally we would hear a faint grumble in the distance, but it wasn't until we were 50 feet away that I noticed the two male lions laying under a tree. I thought we would stop there, but Johnny continued to once forward until we were roughly 10 feet away. They were perfectly harmless, lazily taking a lion snooze. Occasionally they would get up, growl a little, looking for other lions, and reposition themselves for another snooze. They were beautiful, magnificent creatures. 

We spent a long time watching the lions and then slowly made our way back to the main road. The sun was just beginning to set by the time we were on the road, so we found a nice place to stop and stretch our legs. Johnny set up a display of carrots, crackers, and peanuts and raisins on the hood of the truck. Sam shared a bottle of wine while watching the sun set behind the mountains on the reserve. It was a beautiful, romantic evening and a perfect start to our vacation. 

Dark quickly set in and we got back in the truck to finish our night drive. The truck headlight were on lighting our way while Johnny simultaneously shone a spotlight into the trees to the sides to light up any night creatures. We found some jackals, brown hyaena, buffaloes, and white rhinos down by the waterhole. The night drive wasn't nearly as long as during the evening, so we shortly made out way back to camp finding spring hare along the way. 

The last five minutes of the drive was the highlight of my day. As we were pulling up to the camp, Johnny pointed out some footprints on the ground indicating that elephants have been walking along the road. Soon enough we find not just the one or two elephants on the road, but roughly 40 elephants out in the bushes! It was mind blowing seeing all of these large creatures together and I was happy as could be. 

The camp completely transformed to a new place overnight. There were no lights, but instead kerosene lamps lighting up every surface in the common areas and all walkways. It felt like I was in a fairy tale, so happy to be here with my Prince Charming. 

For dinner we had a steak braii with curry cabbage that Sam was in love with, butternut squash, and salad follows by banana flambé. It certainly was an evening to remember and I look forward to many more.