August 30, 2014

I opted to participate in an optional permagardening session immediately following Setswana lessons. Permagardening is similar to permaculture in that it is intended to provide a sustainable means of growing vegetables in our future communities. By having the skills and knowledge of gardening in this new climate, we have the possibility of creating a garden in our backyard for our own enjoyment, at our school to provide nutritional supplements to lunches, or in the community as another nutritional resource for anyone passing by. I like the idea of having a garden and growing my own vegetables, but it is the execution of this idea that posses a challenge. It would be nice to say I’ve gardened in the past, but nurturing seedlings of lettuce without actually having them make it to the ground hardly counts. I’m going to give Botswana gardening an honest effort because, quite frankly, I’ll probably have nothing better to do after work once I’m at site. 

When I say don’t try this at home, I’m serious, don’t try this at home. For the fifth night in a row (since Mme Chiliwa has left for Gaborone and yes, I’ve been counting) I have had chicken and rice for dinner. I’m not complaining because I haven’t had to cook, but there has been no variation until tonight. I watched Princess mix the rice on her plate with ketchup and mayonnaise. I’ve heard this is a common practice in Botswana, but I’ve never actually mustered up the courage to try it until tonight. The distinct and unique taste of mayonnaise and ketchup in Botswana are very different than in the United States which is why I would suggest not actually pursuing the recipe. Botswana mayonnaise is called “tangy mayonnaise,” and in accordance with the name, it is slightly tangy. Botswana ketchup tastes more like real tomatoes compared to the United States which I would consider a good thing. It is also a little more watery and tastes as though there is less sugar, another positive aspect. When mixed together, it produces a surprisingly nice mix of salty, tomatoey, and tangy that is quite enjoyable. However, this may be a one time experience because eating mayonnaise every night with my rice can’t be the most healthy decision.

August 29, 2014

I have a routine of waking up at 5:45am, turning on the hot water heater, and climbing back in bed until 6am when I start my morning routine. I was disoriented when I left my room because it was pitch black. The hallway or bathroom light stays on all night in case anyone has to get up and use the bathroom, but not tonight. I attempted to switch on the lights, but nothing happened. The power was completely out in the house. A wonderful excuse to skip showering, I crawled back in bed and slept for another 45 minutes.

Besides Setswana, we had one session on the overview of care, support, and treatment of HIV. The remainder of the day was filled with individual readiness to serve programming interviews, the third item in our trainee assessment portfolio. Treatment of HIV is crucial for survival, and anti-retroviral therapy (ART) has helped transition HIV from survival (weeks or months) to a lifelong, chronic disease. Just as important as ART is care and support. Care and support works to improve the wellbeing and quality of life of people living with HIV and their family during all stages of the disease. Being a life skills volunteer, I will most likely be on the care and support side of HIV work.

Programming interviews were completed individually starting after lunch and going every ten minutes. My official time was at 2pm; however, I finally went in at 3:10pm because they were so far behind. One of the life skills program coordinators completed my interview, and he was not a happy camper. He went through each question as though he was bored out of his mind and could care less about my response. I understand it has been a long day and that he was hearing the same responses over and over again, but my future site rests in his hands and I was hoping for a little more reassurance that he has my best interest at heart. He asked questions about my education and work history, how training sessions were, and any challenges I was experiencing. The interview was fairly quick and I was ready to go mingle at Patkay with my fellow volunteers.

It is obvious that people are becoming more comfortable with each other because the first conversation I walked into after arriving at the bar was about sex. For a group of health volunteers, this shouldn’t be a surprising conversation.

At one point in the night a local Motswana man in a red shirt came up and started talking to me and a group of female volunteers. The other volunteers quickly ignored him, but I didn’t want to come across as rude, so I entertained the conversation for a few minutes before continuing to mingle. Apparently the same man later went up to Emily, a friend of mine, and asked if she would get me to talk to him. Emily quickly told him to back off because I have fiancee. As she was telling someone else about the encounter with the man in the red shirt, this volunteer informed Emily that he was my Setswana teacher. Funny enough, Greene and the other Motswana both were wearing red shirts, but Emily thought she told off my teacher. It was one big, confusing mess and I was just glad Emily didn’t actually dismiss my teacher.

August 28, 2014

I’m officially constructing sentences! Today we significantly enhanced our vocabularies by adding adjectives along with their respective adjective markers. Of course it can’t be as easy as adding the adjective before the noun like we do in English. Instead, you need two little words between the noun and the adjective - the adjective marker. Following the adjective you need the subject marker (even though it’s fairly obvious that you’re still talking about the same subject) which is another little word with no English translation. And lastly comes the verb and any noun associated with that noun. Yes, it is as confusing as it sounds, but I’m finally getting the hang of it!

Today was draining. We had two hour sessions on the introduction to HIV prevention and addressing HIV stigma and discrimination. The first presentation was fairly interactive and kept my attention. The global data consistently has my jaw dropping. In 2011, 2.5 million people were newly infected with HIV which is more than 7,000 people per day. With remarkable numbers such as these it is easy to get overwhelmed and not know where to begin to help. Peace Corps Botswana’s focused outcomes are on identifying ways of preventing HIV, rejecting misconceptions about transmission, and adopting healthy sexual behavior to reduce STIs and prevent pregnancy. The session ended by introducing a social-economic framework where a person identifies within varying levels of daily life including individual, interpersonal, organizational, community, and public policy. Within each of these levels are identified factors that contribute to your risk of becoming HIV positive. This framework was intended for the volunteer to look at the greater influences on a person’s life when working with said individual.

The powerpoint addressing HIV stigma and discrimination could have be more concise and to the point. There were a lot of words on each slide and the presenters read verbatim from the slides. We have been so spoiled with such wonderful, inclusive, interactive presentations that this particular one seemed to drag on. Although it was difficult to sit for two more hours, the information was meaningful and interesting. We learned about forms of stigma and discrimination and how to combat these in our work. Stigma can manifest physically, socially, verbally, and institutionally. It will be important as volunteers to be inclusive of people who are affected by HIV and try to combat stereotypes and stigmas by spreading knowledge of the disease.

Since Mme left for Gaborone the routine at home has been fairly consistent and uneventful. I come home, sit on the couch and study while my family watches television, eat dinner, clean dishes, and go to bed. It’s nice to get away with not showering at night, but I actually miss the adventure and excitement Mme brings to the home. Even if it means I have to watch her kill another chicken, entertain her drunken conversations late at night, or shower twice a day, I’m looking forward to Mme returning home tomorrow.

August 27, 2014

I continue to get more and more nervous and anxious as our language proficiency exams quickly approach. We have two exams, one at the end of week four and one during week nine. By the end of training we are expected to have a minimum level of intermediate low which translates to having the ability to initiate and close a conversation, introduce myself or someone else, buy a ticket, catch a bus, and get off at the right stop, respond to simple directions from officials or policemen, and discuss simple topics with friends. I had the goal of achieving intermediate low by the first exam; however, it still feels as though I’m a long ways away. We have finally made it to the bulk of constructing sentences and have significantly enhanced our word bank. I study on a daily basis, but it is just going to take practice and repetition for the next week and a half in order to meet my goal.

All of Peace Corps Botswana is part of the greater health sector even though we have different project frameworks. The project areas are HIV mitigation; maternal, neonatal, and child health; environmental health; and life skills for healthy behaviors, although Botswana does not have environmental health volunteers. As a life skills volunteer, alcohol and substance use prevention and youth sexual and reproductive health will be a large component of what I will be doing. The four main guiding principles of the Peace Corps are do no harm, non-discrimination, respect for persons, and participation. These appropriate and effective principles go hand in hand with the Peace Corps’ approach to development in that it is important to assess the needs of the community to ensure your projects are going to be accepted and meaningful, a bottom-up and people-centered approach.

I particularly enjoyed part two of the gender equality and women’s empowerment session. Working at Women Helping Battered Women before coming to Botswana has shaped the way I view gender issues and has had a telling impact on my work. When considering gender work, people often say “equality.” I believe the conversation should be focused on equity rather than equality. Today in class I used the analogy where everyone takes off their shoes and throws them into the center of the room. The shoes are then redistributed in no apparent order. People end up with two different shoes, some too small, some too big, some smelly, and some not your style. Everyone has two shoes, so you could argue that this is equality. On the other hand, equity is meeting everyone’s individual needs which are all different, so having two of the the correct sized shoe. If we change the gender conversation to focus on equity rather than equality, I believe we will better meet everyone’s needs and create a more satisfied community. It is incredibly important to have gender awareness and sensitivity in all work. There are inherent differences between men and women, whether we like it or not, and these differences and needs must be taken into consideration when providing resources and working with individuals.

For the last hour of the day we participated in team building exercises that five volunteers organized, myself included. I somehow got roped into the planning process because I made one suggestion earlier in the day; I was happy to help. We started by going around the room and stating our spirit animal followed by games that got everyone up and moving around. Although my favorite animal is an elephant, I announced my spirit animal as a dog. I’m a loyal friend and always love unconditionally. In addition, I always assume the best of people and will believe anything you tell me; as a result, I can be incredibly gullible. “If you pretend to throw a stick, I’ll believe that you did and go look for it.” I didn’t realize until today how well-suited a dog is in relation to my personality. 

August 26, 2014

Five o’clock in the morning I get a call from Job and fifteen minutes later a text form my dad. Do my family and friends have no idea what time it is in Botswana? I couldn’t go back to sleep, so I read and caught up on some writing until it was time to start my morning routine at 6am.

As I left the house my mom reminds me that she will be gone until Friday and I will be in charge of the house. As the oldest child it would be my responsibility to ensure that my dad gets dinner and to pack his lunch for the following day. In reality, Princess would help me and likely do most, if not all, of the preparations for my dad, but it was still a daunting thought that I would be in charge. It’s interesting that the man traditionally runs the household, but it’s the mom that is the glue that holds everything together. Without her there would be no food on the table, in our lunch pails, or in the fridge; there would be dirty dishes and laundry stacked to the ceiling. The many tasks my mom completes around the house is what keeps it standing.

Today we had a more extensive session on global health as well as part two of our intercultural behaviors and values training. During the global health session we differentiated communicable diseases, non-communicable diseases, and population based and other challenges. The top three infectious disease killers globally are HIV/AIDS, malaria, and tuberculosis. The HIV/AIDS health statistics were alarming, as usual, and I was surprised by the co-occurring diseases (like tuberculosis) that make one more susceptible to contracting HIV. Seeing the sheer number of people affected by these diseases made my work even more meaningful.

After part two of intercultural behaviors and values we were given “healthy outlets” time. I traveled to the post office to mail my three reply messages and a letter to Sam. Healthy outlets is a free hour of time at the end of the day, once per week. It is also the only chance we have to travel to government offices that close at 4:30pm everyday, particularly the post office. I was incredibly confused by the post office line, or lack thereof. There was a line of benches in the middle of the room which I was told was the line to see a teller where I would need to buy stamps. There was then another row of benches lining the back of the room which I still have no idea of their purpose. The benches were full, so I stood behind a man who appeared to be in line. As the line shifted forward, another bench full of people off to the side jumped into the middle line. Once I went to sit at the newly identified bench line, a group of men jumped in front of me and stood where I previously was. I was thoroughly confused at this point and just wanted a simple stamp. Before I knew it, another woman was coming up to me, telling me to take her place in line, meaning I would be cutting at least five other people. I insisted that I was fine waiting in line, but she persisted. I’m not quite sure the rules of lines, cuts, tradesies, and saving spaces, but I was happy to progress towards the front. 

I had my letters and money in hand thinking it would be as simple as buying a sheet of stamps and being on my way. When the lady behind the counter stated this would be around 150 pula I was discombobulated and had to reassess what I actually needed. It’s not as simple as in the United States. The lady was trying to sell me a sheet of at least fifty stamps. I instead bought stamps for my four letters and then enough to send five more letters without having to go through that dreadful line. I still ended up spending nearly four days worth of my walk around allowance on postage, but if it puts a smile on the face of my loved ones then it will be well worth it.

After walking back to the school and using the internet, it was nearly dark. I walked home as the unlit footpaths developed into complete darkness. I now understand why we are supposed to be home by dark with the unknown people and animals running around that are undistinguishable in the blackness. 

Like I had predicted, Princess was busy making dinner once I got home and refused my help. I studied, ate dinner, and decided to wash dishes and clean the kitchen as my contribution to the household. This was probably the cleanest all the dishes have been since their purchase. I utilized my new washing techniques of conserving water while being overly generous with my soap contribution.

August 25, 2014

For the first time in three days I slept through the night without waking up with an upset stomach. Identifying gluten as the culprit was half the battle, now I just have to avoid it which will be the more difficult obstacle to overcome.

I grabbed an apple to go and some ginger drink to bring to my friends. Every drop was gone by the end of the day and the recipe was requested several times. I’ve had plenty to drink and am still standing, so the ginger must have counteracted the bacteria from the bugs floating around the bucket. I was sure to warn anyone drinking the liquid of the bugs, but being in Africa has changed people’s opinions on the definition of “clean” and no one seemed phased by the bugs.

This morning I sat through a two and a half hour session on how to monitor, evaluate, and report our work in the field. I believe creating reports is something you must learn by doing. We could have spent all day theorizing and discussing how to report, but until we are presented with the challenge it is difficult to expect or anticipate what to do. It was a meaningful and helpful session, but any presentation over an hour and a half is difficult to concentrate through, so at two and a half hours my brain was melting in my skull.

Lunch was a welcomed break and we finished the day by introducing the concept of global health. Attempting to define health produces interesting responses. Many people look at health as the absence of disease or illness; however, I would consider this a negative interpretation. Health should instead focus on the positive wellbeing of the person whether this is mentally, socially, physically, and/or spiritually. “Healthy” is a subjective term that should be defined by the individual assessing themselves. I look forward to diving deeper into global health over the next couple of days.

The last agenda item was our daily introduction where one person presents information on themselves each day, a process meant to get to know each other better. And lastly, the totem of appreciation is given out. The totem is a stuffed animal meant to represent our animal group. Our group is dinare, a water buffalo. The other two groups are elephant and zebra, easy animals to find in stuffed animal form. Our totem is a stuffed animal rhinoceros that someone said looked like a dinosaurs. Today we named it Dino, the rhino (that’s supposed to be a buffalo). The stuffed animal is passed along each day while expressing your appreciation for another person. Today, Cheri, my roommate in Philadelphia, gave me the totem and read a heartfelt, genuine note of why she appreciated me. It read:

Elise,

I want to present you with the dinare totem because you inspire me. You have shown great compassion and kindness to other PCTs, especially individuals who were not feeling well. I appreciate your perceptive and thoughtful questions that have deepened my understanding of the training sessions. Thank you for sharing your creativity and insights with all of us.

Warm regards, Cheri

I was incredibly honored and humbled to receive the totem. In the few short weeks we are in Serowe, and with the many wonderful people in our class, I never expected to get the totem, especially the second week it was being handed out. It feels like months ago that I was sharing my last night in the United States with Cheri and I’m incredibly thankful for her friendship.

Not only did I get the totem of appreciation, but I also received three letters in the mail, two from my best friends and one from a dear family friend. I nearly cried while opening the letters, feeling showered in love and appreciation. Between the totem, getting letters, and talking to Sam briefly before leaving school, my head was in the clouds and I was beyond happy.

I spent the next few hours laying in bed and responding to my letters. When I finally emerged from my room I was behind on my homework and quickly sat down with the family to visit and study. Mme offered to draw a picture of a person with each body part clearly labeled that I could study from. Giggles and scribbles later Mme presented the drawing. It was a box-like body with mosquito bite nipples, scrawny legs, the neck of a giraffe, and a bubble butt. No one could contain their laughter and the room erupted with noise. It was wonderful to bond over unspoken words and simple laughter.

August 24, 2014

I officially decided I’m going to start a cookbook. I’m not going to publish it by any means, but rather use it over the next two years as a survival guide. With each passing meal I’m picking up little tips and tricks of how to utilize the ingredients offered in Botswana. Between learning Setswana and how to be a life skills volunteer, I have quickly diminishing space left in my brain to remember what and how to cook. I need to write everything down before it is overthrown by Setswana verbs, nouns, and adjectives.

Among phaletshe and the cabbage dish I have been instructed on how to make, next on the list will be what Mme refers to as “ginger drink.” For a few days now there has been a gross looking bucket full of brown, murky liquid which I assumed was grease or leftover food particles. Mme asked if I wanted some ginger drink which I quickly said I would try. She then told me to help myself. Looking around the kitchen I couldn’t possibly understand what she was referring to. She then pointed more obviously at the bucket. I’ve seen the bugs, cats, and garbage thrown around this kitchen, so I was hesitant to drink form an open container that has been sitting out the past few days. Mme filled a cup and drank some herself and insisted that I do the same. She appeared to be fine and I justified drinking the liquid because ginger is good for digestion and hopefully it would kill off any germs. Flawed thinking, but I went with it anyway. I partially filled up my cup, ensuring that I avoided the frequent bugs floating on top of the liquid and pretending like they were a figment of my imagination. The drink was incredible. It was a wonderful ginger flavor with a hint of apple. Mme added apple chunks to the bucket and it was a refreshing crunch as I sipped my drink. Mme promised to teach me the recipe and I promised myself to make it in a closed container once I get to my site.

The last two nights I’ve woken up in the middle of the night with terrible stomach pains. I’ve been attempting to discover the root of my digestive problems, but haven’t been able to place a finger on it. I’ve been good about avoiding gluten, so I have no guesses to what may be causing this pain. It wasn’t until I was helping cook dinner that I recognized the stem of my problem. Mme Chiliwa handed me a meat seasoning packet to throw away. Out of curiosity and suspicion I checked the ingredients list, and sure enough gluten appeared under the allergens. I don’t know why I didn’t think of this sooner. Nearly every night Mme, Princess, or Onica adds this type of packet to the meat along with vegetables and water to season and make what they call soup. I just assumed they made the mix from scratch, but I have been sadly mistaken. One isolated instance eating the soup wouldn’t have effected my stomach, but night after night of eating the meat and its’ seasoning surly has caught up to me. Luckily I was able to avoid the soup tonight because she made it independently of the meat, but who knows what ingredients will be added to the meal in the future. Moving forward I’m going to have to be more careful about what I’m eating. 

August 23, 2014

Saturday is one of the few days I actually get to sleep in, but my alarm still went off at 6:15am. My plan was to hit snooze and sleep until at least 6:30am, but at 6:17am my phone started ringing. I couldn’t imagine who would possibly want to call me this early until I saw Sam’s number on the caller id. It was a little past midnight for him, so I was pleasantly surprised to hear his voice. It’s amazing the effect Sam has on me. I was immediately wide awake and ready to start my day with a giant grin on my face. It was a wonderful start to the day and I couldn’t be happier or more prepared.

Because of my extra early start to the morning, I got to Setswana lessons early. Every day we sit out in the garden without ever getting the opportunity to explore. I used my extra twenty minutes before class to walk around and find a nice place to sit, look over the field and stream, and sip my tea. I found a raised stage where I sat swinging my feet over the ledge. It was a cool, crisp morning and the warmth of my tea allowed for a perfect combination of temperature. If I lived at this house I would wake up early every morning just to sit in the garden and watch the sun rise.

The Gods were smiling down on me today because after Setswana class and having lunch I got to video chat with Sam and talk to my mom on the phone. Some people become sad after talking to friends and family back home, but talking to Sam and my mom had the opposite effect on me. These are two people that always know how to ground me and reaffirm my greater purpose. Through talking to them I was able to refuel my passion for joining the Peace Corps and prepare for week three.

It was so wonderful seeing Sam’s bright smile and comforting eyes. Seeing him gives me butterflies and I fall in love all over again. We talked for hours, never tiring of each other. I shared pictures of local livestock, cute dogs, my room, and my house. Mme Chiliwa has done a wonderful job of making me feel at home and like I’m part of the family and I can’t thank her enough; however, it doesn’t matter where I am, Sam will always be my home.

I reluctantly said goodbye and walked home. I get tired of sitting on the couch watching television for only an hour, so I don’t know how my host sisters do this all day long for several days in a row. In order to feel part of the family and get further Setswana exposure, I often sit in the living room and study while everyone else watches television.

Sitting in the living room I actually became intrigued by the show that was playing. I started to watch “My African Dream Teen Semifinals” with Princess. I immediately became reflective of American culture and the expectations placed on children and young adults. Leave it to me to turn innocently watching television into an inquisitive examination of cultural differences.

I found myself analyzing the dancing and singing of the competitors, being somewhat harsh and critical at times. I couldn’t help but compare Batswana teens to American teens. This isn’t fair for several different reasons, the first that came to mind being there are significantly more Americans than Batswana, allowing more talent to choose from. To dig a little deeper, my reasoning is inherently flawed. Talent should not be based on how many people each country has to choose from or for that matter how good of a dancer or singer each contestant is. These are young adults who should be recognized for their immense courage to go on television and compete. Americans are often overly critical of their children and young adults, setting an unrealistic standard to meet. With shows like “So You Think You Can Dance?” “American Idol,” and “America’s Got Talent,” American youth are discouraged from expressing themselves artistically because of the unspoken, unattainable expectation that they have to be near perfect. Although “My African Dream” is no Hollywood show, it represents an outlet for Batswana youth to express themselves and be proud of who they are and what they have to offer.

August 22, 2014

A few monumental moments occurred today. Immediately following Setswana lessons we visited the bank and activated our accounts and debit cards, a very important task signifying the ability to now be paid. After returning to the College of Education we had a quick information session on avoiding diarrhea. Needless to say, this is very important information.

We enjoyed and extra long lunch where I was able to study Setswana, read, and quickly throw together a presentation that I neglected to do until a half hour before I would be presenting. For the first TAP (Trainee Assessment Portfolio) assignment we had to chose a potential activity we may complete within our sectors at site. Through this example we were required to explain how we would be meeting the first goal of the Peace Corps, how we would be reflecting Peace Corps’ approach to development in our work, how we would recognize and account for gender equality, and which roles of a volunteer we would be embodying in the process. I decided to present to my group as though I was running an after school athletics program, meeting one of the youth development objectives of incorporating extra curricula sports and physical activities into daily and weekly schedules in order to improve physical and emotional health. I utilized the Peace Corps’ approach to development by having people to people centered interactions, making a change by meeting the needs of the people through a bottom-up approach, and including another teacher or parent when coaching in order to keep the club sustainable once I leave. Some of the roles I would embody may be a learner, depending on how familiar I am with the sport, a co-facilitator when working with another adult, a change agent by altering children’s behavior for the better, and possibly becoming a mentor to some of the children. The project wasn’t difficult and I had a brief, but flawless presentation. Soon I’ll be able to recite these approaches, roles, and objectives in my sleep.

Today was a relaxing end to the week and I was excited about having some down time and then getting out of class early. It was time to hit the bar, no wonder many Batswana think Americans are alcoholics. The majority of trainees went to Patkay, a bar just down the street from the school, to relax and visit with friends. Bars and drinking are viewed very differently in the United States versus in Botswana. In the United States people use the bar as a place to relax and hang out, regardless of whether they are having a drink. In Botswana, bars are often seen as being reserved for partying 19 year olds, excited about finally being able to drink. Older women will often get funny looks while in a bar and Batswana may question their intentions. Being surrounded by Americans, I wasn’t too worried about standing out because lets face it, we all stood out.

A few of the LCFs (language and cultural facilitator) joined us at the bar, everyone at varying levels drunkenness. My group’s LCF, Greene, joined us and we got into a few very interesting conversations about Botswana culture, gender roles, and I certainly learned more about Greene as a person. This seems like a heavy conversation for a bar, but the conversation honestly flowed and we were merely comparing and contrasting our cultures. I feel incredibly lucky to have such a wonderful LCF and group to learn Setswana with. Greene is a great teacher and really recognizes and accommodates to the varying learning styles. 

I returned home as the sun was setting, just in time. Princess said there was meat and fried greens on the stove and that I could make rice to accompany the dish. I decided to live on the edge and attempt phaletshe by myself. Mme Chiliwa came home as I was about done and began observing my cooking. She kept drawing attention to what I was doing and smiling without verifying if I was doing a good job or if it was going to taste like rubber. The smile could have been “I’m proud of you, you’re doing a good job” or “I can’t believe you’re actually doing this, you’re failure makes me smile.” I let it sit for a few more minutes on low heat and then had a taste test. I successfully made phaletshe by myself! My chances of survival over the next two years just increased dramatically.

August 21, 2014

Today is arguably Sam and my anniversary. The summer of 2013 I had just returned from studying abroad in Europe and decided to call up our mutual friend, Chris, to see if he wanted to get a creeme. Chris complied, but asked to bring a friend along - Sam. That night I talked to Chris, and Sam talked to my friend. Sam was just barely on my radar at this point; I thought he was interested in my friend. The following weekend was the Champlain Valley Fair and there would be a country concert with Justin Moore and Josh Turner. Josh Turner is one of my favorite country artists, so of course I couldn’t stay away. August 21, 2013 I climbed in the middle of Sam’s Chevy excited for the show. We sang along, slow danced in the isles, and enjoyed each other’s company all night. After the show we walked around the fair for a bit. Sam and Chris rode the bull, obviously showing off, followed by going on some of the rides. It wasn’t until Sam put his arm around me on the roller coaster that I realized the chemistry that was forming between us, talk about slow on the uptake. We screamed and laughed together as we went back and forth on the roller coaster until completely inverting. At this moment I started falling for Sam. On the car ride home I got butterflies every time Sam’s leg or arm brushed against me, hoping he would casually put his arm around me once more. I couldn’t wait until the next time we would hang out.

We casually started hanging out after the fair. He helped me move into my new apartment and bought me camping chairs as a move in gift. Afterwards I tried to buy him lunch to thank him for helping me, but he insisted on paying anyway, always a gentleman. We hung out the whole day and made dinner together that night. I couldn’t get enough time with him and I was falling for him hard and fast.

A few weeks later Sam took me home to meet his grandparents, aunt, uncle, and cousins. I later learned he was waiting for his family’s approval before moving forward with our relationship. As Sam was explaining this to me he outlined the conversation he had with his grandma, Betty. Sam asked Betty what the family thought of me. She responded by stating the last time Sam brought a girl home they ended up dating for a long time and that he hasn’t brought anyone home since. Sam confirmed this, explaining that he was serious about being with me. Betty continued by asking if Sam loved me which Sam also confirmed. As Sam explained this conversation my heart began to soar. I was beyond ecstatic and I knew I had finally found a good, family centered, well rounded man that would treat me right. 

So whether our anniversary is August 21st when we went to the Champlain Valley Fair, September 1st when Sam helped me move in, September 30th when I met his family, October 1st when Sam’s family voted me “best girl [Sam has] brought home,” or October 4th when I told my mom I officially have a boyfriend, I’m just overjoyed that I’ve found the man of my dreams.

Happy Anniversary Sam! To many more wonderful years together!

August 20, 2014

People are incredibly friendly in Botswana and it is impossible to walk down the street without someone stopping you to ask how you are doing. My walk to Setswana lessons start at 7:15am, arriving in less than ten minutes. I usually pass school children on my walk and very few adults. This morning I greeted a man in the traditional fashion, “dumela rra” meaning “hello sir.” He responded with “hello my sister.” I often get back “dumela mma” meaning “hello ma’am,” but never have I been called “sister” by a complete stranger. It was endearing and for the first time since arriving in Botswana I felt as though I didn’t stick out like a sore thumb, I truly felt like I belonged.

In Setswana class we were given a three part handout where we had to rearrange words to create a sentence, input the correct word into the sentence, and translate a paragraph from English to Setswana. Most people in my class were able to rearrange the words to create sentences with few mistakes and everyone was able to input the correct words; however, I was the only one to completely translate the paragraph. There were two minor mistakes, but considering it was a hefty paragraph, I was pleasantly satisfied with my product.

It was a busy, tedious day full of sessions where we recognized volunteer resiliency, learned about malaria, and discussed dealing with unwanted attention. We identified the four goals of volunteer resiliency as being EPIC - empowerment, protection, integration, and connection. This simple, but thorough acronym aptly describes ways to be resilient in high stress, debilitating situations. I’m sure there will be plenty of times while at site when I feel lonely, bored, or isolated, so it is essential to counteract these potential feelings by recognizing what works best when I’m feeling down in the dumps. Connection and integration will be critical to my wellbeing. I thrive off human relationships, so it is important for me to have an outlet where I can write letters home, look at pictures, or have tea with a Motswana friend. By recognizing my weaknesses it is easier to plan for those challenging days. 

The basic gist of what I learned in the malaria session is: don’t get it. We watched a terrifying video that meticulously described cases of government employees getting malaria and one girl in the Peace Corps that died due to the disease. Basic gist: avoid mosquitos, take medication, and don’t get malaria.

It is tremendously difficult to construct a training based on dealing with unwanted attention because it is a subjective, personal process that should be considered on a case by case basis. This was the basic trend of the day, discussing subjective means for coping throughout service. 

At home I learned to make phaletshe, the corn meal mix with a gummy consistency. I learned the process and attempted to stir the mixture, but failed miserably. My stirring was not adequate, probably because I’m a weakling, so Mme Chiliwa quickly took over and finished stirring so I wouldn’t destroy the meal. I pledge to start working out and building muscle simply for the sake of making phaletshe once I am living alone at my site. My goals of pre-service training have modified to 1. Learn Setswana and 2. Successfully make phaletshe.

My belly was full of phaletshe and beef as I sat with Mme and Princess watching television and practicing Setswana. In the corner of my eye I saw something scatter across the floor. Turning my head, I found a bug at least the length of my pinky finger, and I have long fingers. Before putting on my glasses to verify my findings, I asked Princess if that was a bug. She responded that it was a cockroach and promptly walked over to it and smashed it beneath her slipper. She made no attempt to pick up the splattered remains so they sat there until I went to bed. I don’t know what the protocol is when it comes to bug extermination and clean up, but all I know is the remnants better not show up in my lunchbox tomorrow.

August 19, 2014

Setswana classes are slowly progressing towards sentences construction and verb conjugation. “Verb conjugation” is thrown around a lot in language classes and I have no idea what it actually means. For someone that enjoys blogging and writing you would think I would have a better grasp of the English language, but to be perfectly honest, I’m clueless. I just heard someone else in my class say we were working on verb conjugation and I’m just assuming she is right. Regardless of my ability to speak and write English, I can’t believe we have come this far learning Setswana in just a week. I am now able to provide a simple introduction including my name, where I’m from, where I’m staying in Botswana, what I’m doing here, and my career aspirations. Setswana class is turning into my favorite part of the day.

I should have known better, but no one ever collected our homework assignments from yesterday. I wasted time writing the paper, I stressed about having adequate responses, and now I have sore hand muscles. I’m sure that self reflection will come in handy in the upcoming weeks, but I would have preferred to use the same time, energy, and hand muscles practicing and writing out Setswana phrases. The two major sessions for the day were the roles of a Peace Corps volunteer and an introduction to your assignment area. I enjoyed learning about the varying roles and at times became overwhelmed by the large responsibility I will soon have. The roles described in detail are learner, change agent, trainer, co-facilitator, project co-planner, and mentor. We were instructed to approach each role while considering necessary knowledge, skill, and attitudes required to be successful. The successfulness of your project depends largely on your attitude and approach to your work. You could have no knowledge or skill base, but with a positive attitude, flexibility, and cooperation I believe you will get the necessary information to be successful. As corny as it is, a positive attitude goes a long way.

The second session was a little scattered and redundant. We basically read from the Youth in Development, Life Skills introduction packet that was sent out before arriving in Botswana. However, it was helpful to learn about the school setup and briefly what will be expected on a daily basis. Primary school correlates to American primary school, including grades one to seven, referred to as standard one to standard seven. Rather than middle school, Botswana has junior secondary school which would be grades eight, nine, and ten in American, but are called form one, two, and three in Botswana. After junior secondary school comes senior secondary school which would be grades 11 and 12 in America, but are forms four and five in Botswana. Around 65 percent of students go on to senior secondary school. School is broken up into three terms from January to March, April to June, and August to November. School is in session from 7:30am until 4:30pm with a short tea break in the morning and an hour long lunch break in the afternoon. I will be working with my counterpart in the school, usually a guidance counselor or teacher, to design my work hours and projects that will be completed. It was reassuring and helpful to have a basic foundation of what my days will look like in the upcoming years.

The final session of the day explained our Trainee Assessment Portfolio we would be working on over the next nine weeks. The first assignment is due on Friday where we will give a short, five minute presentation on how the Peace Corps’ approach to development is applied to a specific activity as well as the various roles that the volunteer may undertake. It is fairly straightforward, taking information from each session and applying it to a field example. I’m now thankful for my excessive note taking thus far.

My Setswana homework was to come up with a more thorough, extensive introduction. While working with Mme Chiliwa and Princess to create my paragraph, it became apparent what type of learning works best for me. I need to see the words written out rather than being told to me. As Mme speaks to me in Setswana I’m constantly constructing the words and sentences in my head to see what they look like and then translate them. Once you write down a new word I will more likely remember it than if it is spoken to me which is why I started carrying around a pen and paper. I’m worried that this is going to pose a challenge when I go into my Language Proficiency Exam where everything is oral. In addition, when I’m working in my community, conversations will occur more often than written communication, so adapting to this change in learning style will be essential to my success.

Never ending chicken and rice once again consumed my dinner plate. This time it was accompanied by a cooked kale, tomato, onion dish, more chakalaka, and cooked vegetables mixed with the Botswana version of a hotdog. Everything was delicious, per usual, with lots of left overs for lunch. 

It is no longer pertinent that I mention my difficulties with water because there is always going to be something that I struggle with and I have accepted the fact that I just have to deal with it. However, I will continue to mention my crusade for pure entertainment value because frankly my failure is quite funny most of the time. There was no running water again today, so I “cleaned” dishes in the murky, stale water that has been sitting with food chunks floating around for longer than I like to imagine. I’m not sure if I was wiping down my dishes with a sponge or with soggy food. A disturbing thought I don’t care to dwell on. If my mom was here she would be mortified. My mom cleans dishes before putting them in the dishwasher to be cleaned again, so I could only imagine the look on her face as I added dishes to the drying rack. 

I hate to admit it, but bath time at the end of the night is turning into an enjoyable experience for me. I get to go hide and soak my feet in a bucket of warm water. Sometimes I actually wash myself, other times I use the space to sit and relax, splashing water around a little to seem productive. 

On one final note before I fall asleep, I’ve almost finished my ration of my secret stash of chocolate. It’s about time to send in the troops as this is a critical matter.

August 18, 2014

I’ve upgraded from apples and have moved onto carrots. On my walk to Setswana class I look like Bugs Bunny chomping down on carrots. All I need is some ears and whiskers to complete the look. Today would be the start of a long week. We have officially moved away from orientation, introduction sessions and will be getting into the nitty-gritty part of Peace Corps. 

Our first session of the day was “Peace Corps’ Approach to Development.” Once again I found myself back in my foundations of social work class talking about the importance of people-to-people interactions, bottom-up approaches, inclusion, and empowering people. It was a great session until the very last slide titled “Homework!” I thought this was a joke. The slide asked questions about personal philosophy of human development, challenging aspects of the project framework, and basic thoughts on the Peace Corps’ approach. The last line read, “Please bring your answers to tomorrow’s session on this topic titled Roles of the Volunteer in Development.” I successfully finished elementary school, high school, and college; if I wanted homework I would have gone straight back to school to get my Master’s Degree. Not only did the session run 20 minutes into our lunch, but now we have homework on top of the cooking, cleaning, and studying already on my agenda for the day. I felt my inner fire slowly burn out as I prepared for lunch and then the next session.

I found the next session about accomplishing the first goal of the Peace Corps particularly helpful. The Peace Corps’ first goal is “Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their basic need for trained men and women.” One by one we went over the goals and objectives of youth in development and provided concrete examples of ways to meet each goal. The three major goals we would be working towards are youth development, healthy behaviors for HIV prevention, and capacity building. By the end of the day I had a better understanding of what my job description entailed and what I could expect in the next two years. One of the final slides before my brain officially checked out for the day included the quote, “In your Peace Corps service, you will help plant trees whose shade you will not get to sit under.” This profound quote put this two year experience into perspective. I may not see the initial outcome or impact of my work; however, I will make a difference.

Elise, zero. Water, three. I’m obviously losing against water and can’t seem to master the art of showering or bathing. I was sad to come home to no running water. I couldn’t put off washing my hair any longer than I already have, so I prepared for a bucket bath. I had a 50:50 ratio of hot water to cold water, but it was still scalding hot. I continuously burnt my hands and head as I tried to thoroughly shampoo and condition my hair. I could have easily walked back outside to get more cold water, but that would require redressing and walking around to the back of the house with my bucket to refill cold water. I weighed my options and decided on burning my scalp, unfortunately changing my mind after my hair was already soaking wet. The lightless bathroom was slowly dimming with the sunset and I was beyond ready to finish my bath, at least I was somewhat clean.

We had home fries, beef, coleslaw, and corn for dinner. Everything was salty, just how I like it. Slowly, I conjured up the energy to complete my homework. I don’t remember the last time I hand wrote an essay to turn in. For the past 12 years it has been 12 point font, Times New Roman, and one inch margins. It was obvious how dependent I have become on my computer because my hand started aching after the first paragraph. It is a wonder I actually completed the paper in its entirety. Considering I had less than 24 hours to complete the assignment, I can’t dwell on the adequacy of material.

Roles of the Volunteer in Development

The University of Vermont Department of Social Work has core philosophical tenets focused on the strengths perspective and the empowerment model. The strengths perspective seeks to reinforce the basic qualities of a person and to provide something strong and positive to hold onto - a strength. Social workers use the strengths perspective to empower clients to create achievable goals, reach these goals, and have a more positive view of themselves. 

My social work education and career drives my personal philosophy of human development which is why I identify closely with the Peace Corps’ approach to development. Officially labeled as a capacity building framework of sustainable development, there are many instances where this framework identifies areas where a volunteer helps to empowers their community to take charge of their dilemmas, problems, and issues, ultimately leading to development. 

My long-term career objective is to work one-on-one with youth in a clinical or counseling setting. I often focus solely on building relationships that I forget to connect to the greater organization and community. I am excited about implementing the objectives of youth in development with children, but it will be challenging for me to bridge the gap between my individual work and the greater organization or community. In order to successfully bridge this gap I will use my counterpart, fellow volunteers, and Peace Corps staff as resources and for further support. I will also continue to be organized and meaningful in my work, taking note when something is working well.

Peace Corps’ approach to development is in line with my social work guiding principles and I will continue to consider points of impact on varying levels of a community when accomplishing tasks. In addition, I will consider the sustainability of my projects, my potential to serve the community to the best of my ability, and set goals that will help me accomplish these tasks.

August 17, 2014

It’s no wonder the reason I haven’t gotten sick since being in Botswana, knocking on wood as I entertain the thought. I would have expected to get a minor cold between the endless hours of traveling, adjusting to the time zone, and the chilly mornings. But if one apple a day keeps the doctor away, I should be set at my five apple a day rate. Surprise, surprise, I had an apple for breakfast. I rounded out my meal with two scrambled eggs which would be essential for sustaining myself through the day.

With Mme Chiliwa still in Gaborone and my sisters destined to watch television and hang around the house all day, I decided to acquire some Botswana culture. I joined a fellow Peace Corps trainee and her host family to St. Gabriel’s, a Catholic Church. I arrived at my friend’s house a quarter till 9am, thinking we would be leaving shortly after. What I thought would be a quick excursion turned into a day long event.

We didn’t leave for church until a quarter till 10am. While waiting I drank tea and watched the news. Considering the only television shows my family watch at home are South African sitcoms, it was refreshing to know what was going on in the world. Or at least I thought it would be refreshing. I was amazed at the endless fear, danger, and destruction happening in foreign countries and also in the United States. I was happy to observe that Botswana was never mentioned in the news, meaning there isn’t enough violence and destruction to make the cut. The most violence Batswana experience is through words rather than weapons. Botswana truly is a peaceful country.

Believe it or not, I actually enjoy going to church, even if I don’t understand a word of what is being said other than Modimo, meaning God. By the end of the service I found myself picking up on a few more words, one at a time. You could feel the sense of joy and happiness radiating throughout the large room. Everyone appeared to be in such high spirits, coming together through their love of God. When the choir started to sing, followed by the remainder of the congregation, the church echoed with euphoria. Not knowing if I was listening to the praise of God or a popular Botswana tune, most likely the former, I swayed to the music with a large grin plastered to my face. The power of music and its ability to bring people together never ceases to amaze me.

The service was a little longer than I would have preferred, and after an hour and a half I found myself longing for some English words. Each song was my saving grace and I was rejuvenated and ready to sit through more of the ceremony. From time to time I found myself sending love and happiness to my friends and family back home through prayer. Without a way to telephone or email my loved ones, this seemed the next best form of communication. Growing up, I did not attend church regularly. I accompanied my friends now and again to youth group or a Sunday service, but never belonging to a church of my own. Since arriving in Botswana I’ve found myself sending love and happiness through prayer on a regular basis. With nothing else to hold onto right now, it has been somewhat of an anchor which I am incredibly thankful for.

Three hours later we were back in the car driving home. We stopped briefly at someone’s house to pray for a girl that passed away in 1998. The unveiling of her tombstone was taking place in the next couple of days, so a group of women from the church gathered to pray and sing. Once again, I had no idea what was being said, but I was moved by the music.

I was happy to be home and put on more comfortable clothing. I spent the remainder of the day watching a movie with a friend and studying Setswana. My sisters made a hearty meal for dinner. Honestly, anything would be hearty after the apples and peanut butter, eggs, and cheese slices I’ve been eating the past few days. We had chicken, rice, and coleslaw which will also be my lunch for tomorrow. 

I’m failing with everything in relation to water and now electricity. I struggle to do dishes, stay hydrated, brush my teeth, bathe, and wash my hands without running water. I was finally going to struggle through another bucket bath because I think my sisters are picking up on how seldom I shower. I turned the light on in the bathroom, heard a loud pop, and watched the lightbulb explode. I attempted to turn on the hall, bathroom, and bedroom lights, but nothing was working. I must have blown a fuse for half the house; this house does not agree with me. I checked in with my sisters who immediately went into the kitchen, flipped a switch, and the lights came back on. At 14 or even 17 years old I wish I was that useful. I don’t know how my parents and now Sam put up with my lack of resourcefulness; however, there is hope for me yet as I’m slowly learning. Every light worked except for the bathroom, so we lit a candle in order for me to brush my teeth. Any wishful thinking that I was going to bathe just burnt out with the lightbulb.

August 16, 2014

I hardly function without water. I unsuccessfully washed my hair in a bucket, completely neglecting the back of my head which continues to accumulate grease and probably bugs at this point. I didn’t want to bother with finding water to clean dishes so I ate an apple for breakfast and lunch. It has been at least two days since I’ve eaten something other than an apple as the staple to my meal. 

After Setswana lessons I set out to find an internet cafe. We had a nice, long walk to one of the main shopping centers. On our way we passed a sign that said internet cafe. We decided to stop and ask a young girl passing by. She immediately asked us for money which we respectfully refused. This girl about 13 years old continued to be persistent stating that her mother beat her up, so she needs money. If this would be anything like what we would be experiencing the next two years I will come back with a broken heart. Either her mother truly does beat this poor child or she has learned the most effective ways to haggle money off people. I hate to consider either as being true, but sadly I’m sure it is one or the other.

When we finally found an internet cafe I spent the majority of my 30 minutes paid time while waiting for my email to load and then loading the messages. I could have easily spent the entire day at the computer spending every last pula I had, but I was dependent on my friend’s schedule to walk home. I cried several times while reading emails as I was reminded of what I am missing back home. Little things Sam said like waking up and smelling my hair or attempting to quantify how much we love each other made my heart melt and miss him that much more. I knew this would be one of the hardest things our relationship would ever endure, but I didn’t expect the extensive loneliness after just barely a week of being separated. The walk home was refreshing and necessary to clear my mind and reinforce why I am in the Peace Corps and the positive impact I will be making as a result. 

August 15, 2014

“Would you rather?” is an informal game to play on long road trips in the car. You provide two scenarios, asking which the group would rather do and the group discusses the options. After the next two years I’m going to have a whole new set of “Would you rather” statements to play with. Would you rather bathe twice a day or bathe every five days for the rest of your life? Last night a kind gentleman drove around the neighborhood with a megaphone relaying that there would be no water today or the day after. And so I start my long stretch of not washing my hair. By Sunday I’m sure there will be bugs crawling next to my ears and at the base of my scalp. Would you rather have bugs crawling in your hair or learn and accomplish how to bucket bathe? I could play this game forever, but it looks like I’m going to be innovative and learn how to bathe with a bucket, something Batswana wouldn’t consider innovative but instead a staple skill when living in Botswana.

I woke up periodically throughout the morning because my mom and dad were talking loudly in the living room starting around 5am. There were a few reasons why this doesn’t make sense. First, my host parents have a separate little house with their own living room to talk loudly in. Second, it’s 5 o’clock in the morning! What could you possibly talk about that early? I left my room at 6am because I desperately had to use the bathroom. Right as I was walking out of my room, Mme passed by me and told me to go outside and get water off the fire to take my bath. So much for getting a few extra minutes of sleep. Still sleepy eyed I grabbed my bucket and gathered some hot water so I could take a pathetic excuse for a bath in the frigid morning.

Instead of Setswana lessons this morning we gathered at a local Kgotla where we would meet the various Kgosi of our respective wards. A Kgotla is similar to a town hall and a Kgosi is a chief. The Kgotla is used as a community gathering place, place for councilors to relay community information, a social service venue, platform where community development projects are discussed, a court where one can settle civil disputes, and it provides the community with security. The Kgosi is challenged with overseeing the land, bringing people together to unify the community, and to encourage development. The Kgotla is an integral part of the community and a great place to go when proposing an idea or simply to access various community resources. 

The Kgotla is a formal setting where women are required to wear dresses or skirts and cover their hair. During the informal meeting and introductions, a woman, who was not wearing a head scarf, began asking a question. One of the Kgosi asked her to leave and only return when she had a head covering. Our group was allowed to have their hair covered, but I was surprised by this strict enforcement of dress code. I will be curious to continue observing the role of the Kgotla and Kgosi as my stay in Serowe continues.

The rest of my day was filled with elementary medical and security trainings. Mme Chiliwa left for Gaborone today and Mr. Chiliwa will be gone working until next Friday. Until Mme returns Sunday night I will be home alone with the girls. There is still a level of awkwardness around my new sisters, so I locked myself in my room, ate copious amounts of peanut butter on an apple for dinner, and crashed. I’ve been in Serowe less than a week and I am almost through an entire jar of peanut butter.